Forge Fashion

A collar for Ruby Ruin....

2012-03-02T12:13:00.000-08:00

I just finished this lovely collar for Ruby Ruin using the left over fabric from her corset:-

Actually I'm on a bit of an accessories tangent, they're really the perfect thing to fit in between the bigger jobs (my wedding order is underway, but not all consuming at this stage). So right now it's all about planning and making lots of new accessories. Earrings, collars, cuffs, hats, spats and pasties to name a few ......with a handful of samples and finished items already on hand I'm feeling rather productive.

Yay I'll be restocking my ETSY in no time....

Making Corsets is a Cinch with Electra Designs!

2012-02-27T10:39:00.002-08:00

If you haven’t supported this already definitely take a look with only a few days to go your pledges will be well appreciated!!

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1066830195/making-corsets-is-a-cinch-with-electra-designs

Finished Order for Ruby Ruin

2012-02-23T13:04:00.002-08:00

It's done , it's done!!!!

Here be pictures of Ruby Ruins finished order:-

And one of the finished inside for your interest....

Doesn't the shape work so well on her......it just fitted her like a dream and she was so happy with it, which is of course just bloody marvelous! Now she's off to bling it up, since she wanted to do that herself I have a nice wee stock pile of swarovski crystals and rhinestones I can use for another project (already doodling new designs as we speak).

Order Update...

2012-02-15T15:09:00.000-08:00

So how's the 'Dita' corset going for my customer you ask?

Here's some quick blurry shots of where I'm at:-

Close up

Inside - From Front

Insideout - Back

Corset as is :)

So not much left to go really - just some bones, binding, hand sewing, eyelets, back modesty panel, suspenders and prehaps a little beading - lol not much at all..... well it's definitely progressing at least!

Trompe l'oeil in the Cemetery

2012-02-05T19:53:00.000-08:00

We often wander through our local cemetery on the way back from the park, it has like a lot of Christchurch taken quiet a beating from all the earthquakes, but even so it retains a very beautiful serene atmosphere. We recently discovered a lovely lady name Anne painting a Trompe l'oeil (aka trick of the eye) and stopped for a chat.......now we are inclined to pop past regularly to check her progress and take photographs.

Such a big undertaking!

And of course lets not forget the headstones, crosses, cast iron details and inscriptions....but for now here are a few of my favorite crosses....

And we better finish up with a splash of colour....

Pretty!!

Onward.....

2012-02-01T12:32:00.000-08:00

I've had a bit of an unwell spell (don't you always realise how under rated feeling normal is at times like these), anyway onward and upward this week as I am in a much better state of health......

This week my little people returned to school leaving me and lovely Clover at home with a tiny bit more spare time up our sleeves. And just in the nick of time too, my custom made order for Ruby Ruin is due latter this month. So time to get stuck in.....well time to work in moderation everyday till completion (nothing like chipping away consistently)!!

We needed to match our fabric and lace with the pictured feather. We did rather well with the limited selection available, finding a very pretty antique lace and pearlized satin crepe.

Yesterday I stabilised the crepe with double sided fusing and canvas, creating a more heavy weight fashion fabric which will counteract stretching and wrinkles.

Cutting out all the pieces is actually a reasonably big job, due to all the layers - so that makes 36 individual pieces for the corset and 27 for the collar made up in this instance of the fashion fabric/canvas, lace overlay and lining.

*Next will be making a start on the the lace overlay which needs to be hand tacked on to each individual pattern piece so that it doesn't flap around once I start sewing it together.

Hearts for Christchurch....

2012-01-21T19:38:00.000-08:00

Last weekend we took a family trip to the Christchurch Museum and botanical gardens......mostly with the intention of seeing the W.O.W costumes, which we did (no photography unfortunately or I would have taken a hundred pictures). Anyway while we were there we came across the 'Hearts for Christchurch' exhibition, this lovely idea was started by Napier resident Evie Harris which once spread through the crafting community began an influx of handmade hearts from all over the world.....

We strolled through the room admiring all the hand stitching and effort made by so many different people and it was hard not to feel a little uplifted in the process......

They came in many colours and sizes spreading across the walls in various arrangements, some with written messages, but each individually handmade with love..... over 4,000 in total!!

http://www.canterburymuseum.com/events/

http://heartsforchristchurch.blogspot.com/

Steampunk Wedding Concept.....

2012-01-17T13:14:00.000-08:00

I've been playing around with more line drawings, this time as a necessary aid in providing my customer with options for her steampunk wedding ensemble.

This is the initial style Niki picked from my corset collection:-

I think having straps definitely gives a lovely curvy 'bride to be' a little extra reassurance (so the ideal style in this instance).

Starting with the basic style.....

And then the same concept with a few additions......

Now we're getting more of a waistcoat look, which is perfect for that steampunk finish we're after.

And with that done my bride was easily sold on 'Vest B' - yay I will have wonderful challenge ahead (which is much more fun then the typical plain corset which is so often requested).

*I definitely enjoy doing these, they make a great style reference plus they give me a way to work on design concepts via my PC (since I spend so much time on it anyway), I've already created a nice little collection which I imagine I will keep adding to :)

Mock ups and flossing samples......

2012-01-13T13:00:00.000-08:00

The new 'Dita' style corset is coming along nicely, I've made my first basic mock up for Ruby Ruin......

It's just a basic shell, but it's great getting to this stage because once it's made up I feel more confidence with my drafted pattern and can gage what adjustments I may need (also another collar mockup).

My next move in this case will be making a completed mock up with bones, so I can finalize the fit before I begin on the actual finished corset. We're heading off on a fabric hunting mission over the weekend - exciting, I feel like I haven't been to a fabric store in way too long!

Now onto 'Flossing'.....

I've made a few flossing samplers as I'm super keen to make a corset with lots of flossing detail at some stage over this coming year.

My lovely stock pile of coloured cottons at the ready for further experiments and samples......

*NOTE:- a rather handy tip via Alexis Black from 'ElectraDesigns' which I received after I posted this to my facebook 'try running your floss through beeswax, then passing it under a hot iron before flossing. It will reduce the fuzziness and make it more manageable.' Looks like I might be doing some more sampling :)

Scales, scales and more scales...

2012-01-02T14:31:00.000-08:00

Firstly Happy New Year!!
Secondly - why, why, why must the earth keep shaking here in Christchurch!!!
Thirdly - Updates......

What have I to report? well lets see - still making smaller items.......mostly of the scale variety, I had a pre Christmas burst, even got cards to hang them and did some handmade boxes.

My orders are starting to come forward, so have had to start organising my sewing room which hasn't been touched since we moved into the new house. But it's actually fun digging into boxes and refreshing my enthusiasm with long forgotten fabrics supplies.

I've also been having a lovely time with a good friend of mine indulging in some leisure activities, gardening and crochet (well actually lots of learning on my part and teaching on hers). And of course it's school holidays so there are few other creative projects getting done with my little people.

Macy's Christmas Window 2011

2011-12-12T14:03:00.000-08:00

WISHING EVERYONE A SAFE AND HAPPY CHRISTMAS! XXX

Ref (still images of the display):-
http://heymishka.com/2011/11/28/winter-sprites-macys-xmas-windows-the-necklace-of-my-dreams/

Pre planning....Customer sheets!

2011-12-05T14:44:00.000-08:00

Since I'm not able to launch into any sewing work at the moment, my best alternative seems to be pre planning. As I have a number of orders coming up in the new year I thought it would help to do a little organising (just of the 'paper work' variety). Anyway I've started making a few basic customer sheets, complete with inspiration pics and my own style drawings for future reference. I've only completed the one so far, which is for 'Ruby Ruin' a regular of mine (it's also of course the first order requiring completion).

Actually I'm thinking these could also become handy customer info pages to be shared with the client........though a few more details would be on the final copy - including required time line, price, detailed measurements and corset materials. Anyway starting basic:-

(What burlesque performer is not inspired by the lovely Dita and her gorgeous costumes?)

Mmmmm reasonably content - I think I'll have ago at doing the same for Nikki's Wedding order :)

Baby Update:-

2011-12-03T14:06:00.000-08:00

We have a beautiful healthy baby girl who is super cute, which = totally smitten!!

*She's nearly 3 weeks now......so we have been busy getting into the swing of things and finding a nice rhythm by which we can all live contentedly :)

Taking a hiatus and a note about 2011

2011-11-09T12:52:00.000-08:00

The reason a hiatus is required.....
It's just about time to have my baby so I am well round with puffy hobbit feet and all those wonderful symptoms experienced by women the world over (some how that doesn't make it any more enjoyable and I'm seriously over having friken indigestion). Anyway it's only a matter of days and I will be meeting the little tyke who's been hanging around in my womb - my partners so excited he can barely contain himself, and I have 2 siblings here experiencing the same excitement. With the big gap in age (they're 9 & 11) I can see that they will both be really great helpers, particularly my daughter who has a very homely nurturing nature (such a gorgeous wee Taurus she is).

A note about 2011
Really it's been a crazy year all around (earthquakes, pregnancy, multiple relocating and all the stuff in between), the opportunity for growth has been so extreme, my goodness big learning curbs were definitely the order of the day! Oh yes 2011 may just take the top position as one of the most unforgettable years of my life thus far!! That said I can honestly say I feel more at home and comfortable in my relationships then I have in my entire life, without all the hardships and opportunities that came my way I doubt I could have learnt to be as conscious of it as I am now.
I feel blessed by the amazing support I have from my friends and family, they're really all the magic and richness anyone could seek!!

*As I am writing this my children are dancing around like flaying Leprechauns playing the Harmonica and Ukulele - the dog is whining loudly in horror LOL and this is it - my wonderful amazing wayward life!

Sampling - Dragon Scale Maille

2011-11-09T12:38:00.000-08:00

Since we've had another big relocate (explains my absence) back home to Christchurch, and I'm close to the end of my pregnancy I have had to settle for small creative projects as opposed to big sewing orders or indepth work......so I've taken to 'sampling', it's a great way of keeping my creative mind active and my hands busy :)

I've been doing embroidery/flossing samples for a while (I'll do a post about that latter), but more recently I've taken to playing with dragon scale maille, trying various techniques and figuring out how to acheive the effects I want.

Tradition Chain Maille Weave

Crochet & Scales

5 Petal Flower

Earrings

*The earrings are sort of the beginning of my DIY Christmas gifts (excuse the blurry shot).

Plaid Basic 'Curvy' Corset

2011-09-09T16:05:00.000-07:00

Remember how I was planning another version of the 'Steampunk' Set in tartan/plaid? If not check the original post here:- http://forgefashion.blogspot.com/2011/05/oxblood-leather-accessories.html

Anyway I ended up using my Basic 'Curvy' pattern (now that it's been perfected).........but of course once it actually came together I found I wanted to make a few changes. The main being I wasn't as partial to the 'Ox Blood' leather with it as I thought I would be, so I ended up going black instead.......

I have cut out the 'Octo' Collar as well, though I have yet to make it up plus I'm also thinking about doing a skirt (I have a complete vision in my head so why not - it also means once I get back to Christchurch I can plan a photo shoot for the entire set) :)

UPDATE

*On another note I'm starting to think about next year.......I've been looking through my many sketch books, thinking about the piles of original designs I have that would be amazing to actually manifest (I would really like an opportunity to do more creative work). So I'm thinking a complete collection, with a Fashion Show or Exhibition perhaps.......at the very least the satisfaction of starting work on some of my dream projects - it's a long list after all so it definitely time to get a start on :)

Vogue Italia - September Issue 2011

2011-09-03T17:57:00.000-07:00

Now onto the exciting news........Forge Fashion was contacted by Stylist Elin Svahn (Karl Templer's Assistant) looking for a collar for a photoshoot/editorial inspired by the notorious Ethel Granger.
The shoot was for the September Issue of Vogue Italia:-

Cover Vogue Italia September 2011

Photographer: Steven Meisel

Model: Stella Tennant

As currently seen on the front page of the Vogue Italia Wepage:-

Click pic above to see photos and video of the shoot

Collar By Forge Fashion

Forge Fashion Credit

Editorial 'The Discipline of Fashion'

Photographer: Steven Meisel
Fashion Editor: Karl Templer
Model: Stella Tennant

My collar appears in the editorials full spread (details and pics above click to enlarge), you can't see it overly well because Stella Tennant is planking across 2 pages as you can see....but hey my names credited on the page so there you go -Forge Fashion is definitely in Vogue! Very amused and excited!!

PVC Lace Corset & Collar Set

2011-09-03T16:34:00.000-07:00

Here's some more recently completed work:-

CORSET STATS
-3 Layer Construction(strength layer included)
-Combination of 16 Flat & Spiral Steel Bones
-Contrast Lace Overlay
-Heavy Duty Hook & Eyes
-Satin Binding
-2 Piece Metal Eyelets in Silver
-Appropriate Length Black Lacing

Both the Corset & Collar are available in my ETSY Store:-

http://www.etsy.com/shop/Forgefashion

Basic 'Curvy' Cameo Corset

2011-08-26T19:26:00.000-07:00

I have a huge love of Cameos, you may have guessed if you've looked through my work......I've used them all over the place, cuffs, collars, hats & corsets of course!!lol.....

YAY- Eyecandy!! Here's my recent handy work featuring a cameo:-

Click pic to goto ETSY Sale

So the adaption of my 'Basic Curvy' cut corset was a success (remember how I ended up with a demi bust on my first sample instead of full overbust), so I have made a few different sizes in this style. The first (above) a size 20" with stunning detailing & a wonderful cameo, another in tarten, size 24" which I'll be sure to post soon.

And just because it fits so perfectly check out this recent ETSY Treasury featuring this corset:-

CAMEO CRAZED

UPDATE

I am always busy trying to do something (like most of us are) - right now it's trying to finish up various odds and ends, from things laying around half finished from eons ago, to more recently prepared samples.......it ultimately means I can put it all up for sale in my ETSY shop for the period while I'm not taking orders. *Lets just say with another move planned (back across the Islands) and a new baby arriving I have to be on the ball where possible!

Tumblr

2011-08-26T17:43:00.000-07:00

I love Tumblr (I have already faved hundreds of images, talk about daily visual fix), so I have made an inspiration blog featuring some of those faved images and the occassional promotion of my own work. It's more a visual storage space with references and images that inspire & interest me with odd comments as opposed to an actual blog.

So feel free if your on Tumblr to add me if you want to see the corsets, costumes and fashions that tickles my fancy :D.......

TUMBLR

Leather 'Underworld' Replica Tutorial...

2011-08-10T19:25:00.000-07:00

I get a lot of request for Leather 'Underworld' Corsets particularly around this time of year (pre Halloween/convention time), so I tend to take on a couple of orders for it each year. I really enjoy doing a little replica work from time to time (not only is it a good skill to have as a costume maker, but with anything that I have to repeat again and again there is the potential for improvement in my work).

MY PROCESS/ YOUR TUTORIAL
*Please note this tutorial is for somebody who has previous corset making experience and understanding (as I will not be going into detailed corset making techniques).*

Anyway onto the making of my most recent version of this well loved replica. I tend to prefer recycled leather for this project as the corset needs a little bit of a worn look. I start by drawing out the design which is seen on the corsets front panel (kinda looks like a Celtic Knot), then I transfer it on to pattern paper, I have found this the easiest for the purpose,plus it's easy enough to nip off a commercial pattern you may already have laying around . Once on the pattern paper the design is then cut in half - this is because I will be doing the embroidery onto the two central font panels separately.

So begins the rather slow process of machine stitching the design on (of course there are other more simple methods, but this how I do it)............so with the pattern paper laying over the leather I stitch right through both the paper (leaving enough room for the seam), the leather and the canvas following the outline of the design. After I have completed this I rip the paper away leaving the outline on leather as seen in the picture above on the left (you might like tweezers to get the little bits that get stuck).

Next the two center front panels are stitched together carefully matching the the design so it is perfectly mirrored on each side (well as close to matching as possible would be more accurate).

Now for the fun part (lol) you need good machine control for this, the alternative is to turn the wheel of your machine by hand. The internal areas of the design need to be filled in, I do this by stitching continuous lines back and forth. You may also have noticed I am using a Teflon foot (I can't recommend this enough) leather has the same 'slip properties' as PVC and if you insist on using a normal foot it will become very difficult (even if you have a walking foot - at this stage you really need to use a Teflon).

Time to make loads of strapping (cut, fold, sew), you need two sizes of clips also known as parachute clips. X6 smaller for both sides on the waist and x2 larger for one side on the hips. It's best to thread the strapping right through the clips so the clip can't be opened, since the are only for decoration.

Now it's time to start adding the other panels (add central bone channel before joining). Remember one side has the hip strapping, so it needs to be lined up and sewn into the seam. The top stitching for the bone channels is best done with a zipper foot (those buckles can get right in the way, so depending on your supplies it can be easier to thread the clips on afterward).

The following panel has the smaller clips, x3 on each side (it's the same process again for both sides).

Once you get around the back it's time to get the ends of the strapping closed off DO NOT JUST LAY FLAT AND SEW INTO THE SEAMS it's important that you use a dress makers doll, mannequin or even a pillow to create a body shape, so you can rest the strapping around the actual shape desired to find the correct placement (once something is moved from flat to concave or convex your required ease will change, particularly with overlaying pieces).

Once the lining it added it's time for binding (this is where you would well love a walking foot).

Bones are cut and finished to size so they can be inserted.

Then it's finishing up the binding and eyelets.

My Finished Order:-

With the matching boned cuffs:-

EDIT 8/09/2011
Because of popular demand I have made another Replica, a standard 'Underworld' Selene Corset available at my ETY Store for anyone who's interested:-
http://www.etsy.com/listing/81122600/replica-26-underworld-leather-selene

Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition in Montreal

2011-08-04T14:57:00.000-07:00

Blog reference posts of the exhibition here:-

http://chowethel.blogspot.com/2011/07/jean-paul-gaultier-true-genius.html

http://ceciliarosell.wordpress.com/2011/06/26/that-jean-paul-gaultier/

Lisa Black Project - Nokia Gaming

2011-07-28T14:42:00.000-07:00

I don't get to take credit for this one, it's more of a collaboration of sorts. You may remember an earlier post mentioning work I was doing for Lisa Black (the taxidermy artist), well the results of that are now up on line. The Campaign was for Nokia, sort of a tribute to the hands of gaming. Take a look:-

Hooded Character

Satyr Character

Lisa had me make 3 character costumes for this project (x1 of them, which is my favorite has yet to be seen so I'll leave that one out for now).

The Satyr Character from my end just before it was sent away......

And you can see here how Lisa adds her own special brand of clever, bringing the character to life:-

With the final results:-

And the Hooded Character.....

You can see Lisa's additions and the final results here:-

**All in all is was a lovely experience working under Lisa's Creative Direction and I'm very proud to have been involved. I also think Lisa is one very talented lady and am glad she trusted in my abilities enough to bring me on board for this project :)

Posture Collar

2011-07-23T15:29:00.000-07:00

Thought I'd share pictures of my recently completed PVC & Lace Posture Collar, made to match one of the corsets for the photo shoot I mentioned in the previous post (everything is coming along nicely by the way).

Working it through......

2011-07-23T14:57:00.000-07:00

I'm busy working on orders again (a few to catch up on before I can start the next batch), plus trying to get other projects finished up and ready for my next photo shoot. So there should be plenty of posting over the next few weeks as various items come to completion *(as long as I can keep up with the busy) :)

Recent Customer Order:-
This order was a bit on the tricky side, my customer has recently given birth to twins, so of course her body is not quiet the standard shape or size I'm use to dealing with. But since a corset is just the thing for extra curves, offering support and withdrawing inches it definitely deserved the challenge.

Initially my customer wanted the 'Basic Curvy' style which though very shapely, is unfortunately not suited to waist sizes exceeding 28- 30", it is designed as a cheaper light option containing minimal panels and bone placement (more suited to S - M standard sizes). Being that I had purchased the King and Company pattern not long before, and it offered more bone placement I decided to use that as my base. With the adaptions added and a mock up made (some tinkering done at this point) I was able to move ahead with my usual process.

And the results:-

It was an after thought but thought I should add a pic on the dolly - it really needs figure to show the shape :)

Fake Designer corsets, how good are they?

2011-07-21T21:10:00.000-07:00

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - Gallery Views

2011-07-02T15:37:00.000-07:00

And this blog post is definitely worth a look (lots of stills):-
http://bellamaurinha.tumblr.com/post/7112954220/its-time-magnificent-torture

Trubie....

2011-06-23T16:15:00.000-07:00

You'll have to click the picture to see the Sookie 'LOL' love :)

Hahahaa....I'm not sure where this came from but it made me laugh so I had to repost it. I'm nearly finished the eighth book in the Sookie Stackhouse series (keeping myself topped up between seasons you might say), and I am finding them thoroughly enjoyable - very different to the TV series though......guess I'll be ordering more books very soon, but in the mean time Season 4 - hooray!

Pretty as a picture.....

2011-06-14T18:59:00.000-07:00

PHOTOGRAPHY:- Bruce Jenkins
www.studiofifteen.co.nz
MODEL:-Loran Hosegood
http://www.modelmayhem.com/2134479

A day by the Sea!

2011-06-10T15:34:00.000-07:00

More images from Bruce & Loran.......

PHOTOGRAPHY:- Bruce Jenkins
http://www.studiofifteen.co.nz
MODEL:-Loran Hosegood
http://www.modelmayhem.com/2134479

Mad Hatter

2011-06-10T15:18:00.000-07:00

I recently sent a couple of sets away to Napier for a photo shoot with Bruce Jenkins of Studio Fifteen and Loran Hosegood. The images are starting to slowly filter in which = :) posting times!

PHOTOGRAPHY:- Bruce Jenkins
http://www.studiofifteen.co.nz
MODEL:-Loran Hosegood
http://www.modelmayhem.com/2134479

Customer Pics - Khrist

2011-06-10T15:00:00.000-07:00

I've had a wee batch of customer pics come in - nearly time to sort out my Customer Photos Page I feel (actually I do have a fare bit of updating to do). Anyway here's a photo of Khrist le' Model out on the town in her Forge Fashion leather outfit (also worn for her petite Alternative Shoot).

The shots for Petite Alternative Magazine are great from the perspective of the model (she really looks lovely), unfortunately there aren't any full torso shots which would have showcased the outfit - never the less here are the images that were published in the April 2011 edition:-

Petite Alternative Magazine April 2011

*I had hoped to see a few more shoots completed with Khrist, as she holds a number of outfits for that purpose........but I have a looming deadline and need to get a certain amount sorted before then, which means I can't afford to wait any loner then I already have :(

The demi revamp!

2011-06-01T16:18:00.000-07:00

The demi bust revamp went really well, and I'm really glad I decided to do it. Fortunately for me I had a very good friend and muse come to stay over the weekend so I actually got to try it on somebody (after complaining about the absence of handy dollies in the previous post), lol the irony!

Curvy Longline Underbust

This sample is now up for sale in my ETSY shop:-

http://www.etsy.com/shop/Forgefashion

Photo shoot......

2011-05-30T22:50:00.000-07:00

Last week I finished up some accessories to match a couple of waspie corsets that are heading off to Napier for a photo shoot.........initially I wasn't going to add the extras, but after a brief discussion with the model I felt convinced it would be a good way to complete the look.

Lace PVC Set

Reptile Print Set

That's me making a wee cameo appearance in the hat above - the unfortunate thing about moving........not having live dollies on hand :(

Nomadic days and nights

2011-05-21T14:50:00.000-07:00

Featured Treasury by Angweenies

Forge Fashion Featured items:-

Leather Underworld Replica Set

Loving the Shape.....

2011-05-19T14:08:00.000-07:00

I recently had the pleasure of fitting Tammy into her custom made underbust corset, and man was I happy with the results - what a great shape this lass has!

Aside from wishing I'd used a thicker satin I really am just grateful it all came together so perfectly.......you see this was actually started in Christchurch right before the earthquake, which meant it had to be put on hold for a number of months while I was relocating. But the most amazing part was moving (unbeknown to either of us at the time) into the same town as my remote customer!! Talk about luck!!

Blame the 'Demi Bust'.....

2011-05-15T15:03:00.000-07:00

You may remember my 'Demi Bust' from a previous post, the 'Demi' part was some what unintentional so I planned to revisit the pattern and begin work on another sample (the pattern is adapted and I have a couple of sizes cut out and ready to build - the plan is underway). Now to the present - I just took an order based on that particular 'Demi Bust' sample, however it is to be adapted into an underbust. For the benefit of the client I made a quick underbust line drawing and did a little photoshop adjustment so I could present something of an example of how it might look.

Not bad really, plus it will still have the simple boning/construction for comfort and the lovely curvy shape.

Now that also got me thinking about the original sample, like all my corset experiments it has been listed to my ETSY store (which is great because that is how I received this current order).......but it really isn't as wearable as I would like. Long story short I've decided to reshape it into a nice vampy underbust which should improve its fit and look by leaps and bounds. Here's the new shaping I'm going to try:-

UPDATE
I've already done the required shaping and recut the bones to the new size, so it's just the short journey to the finish line for this little revamped beauty :)

Oxblood Leather Accessories

2011-05-13T20:36:00.000-07:00

So I've been having pretty hectic times of late, but I'm still trying to fit in a little play time here and there. Once of my latest play projects is reproducing my Steam Punk Corset Set as seen here on the lovely Lara......

Steampunk Corset Set By Forge Fashion

This time I want to change the tone slightly by using a beautiful Oxblood coloured leather for the trim and accessories. I have made the belt and 'Octo' collar already, but I haven't decide yet what fabric I'll use to compliment this colour scheme. Here is the collar and belt......

Oxblood Leather 'Octo' Collar

Oxblood Leather Steampunk Belt

Ive tried a few fabrics and so far the winning combo seems to be this plaid:-

Example

Mmmm to be pondered further, more pics to come.

A Special Project....

2011-04-27T18:12:00.000-07:00

I know I've been a bit quiet on the blog front of late!! But aside from adjusting to our big move (relocating from Christchurch after the latetest destructive earthquake) I've also had a rather large project keeping me occupied this last month, particularly the last few weeks. The project which I can't reveal just yet, involved working on x2 character costumes for the gorgeous & talented taxidermy artist, Lisa Black based right here in New Zealand.

I will look forward to posting more about this as it all comes to fruition, in the mean time be sure to check out Lisa's work here:-

Click pic to see more

Ruby Ruin & DarkAngel Photography

2011-04-04T14:58:00.000-07:00

Ruby Ruin recently did a shoot with DarkAngel Photography aptly named 'SugarSkull' in which she is wearing a custom made corset by Forge Fashion!!

Click pic to see more....

Petite Alternative - April 2011

2011-04-04T14:36:00.000-07:00

Khrist Le'Model is featured in this months Petite Alternative Magazine wearing Forge Fashion!!

I will post the pics from this shoot in due course. ;)

Further Earthquake Damage.....

2011-03-03T14:35:00.000-08:00

Unfortunately we've had a second major earthquake in Christchurch, so just like many others from the Canterbury region I am feeling a little defeated right now. For the time being I am preoccupied with sorting out important details relating to the future security and safety of my family.

So bare with as I experience some technical life difficulties........hopefully resuming as normal once our current issues and concerns are resolved!!

Stay safe fellow friends and residences of Christchurch.

Abbey

French Strawberry with Musings...

2011-02-18T17:35:00.000-08:00

Featured Treasury by BohoCharme

Forge Fashion Featured items:-

Leather Steampunk Belt

http://www.idreamedisaw.com

Forge Fashion Featured items:-

Patent Leather Harness/Bolero

I'd rather be curvy!

2011-02-14T11:03:00.002-08:00

Featured Treasury by lexiloohoodesigns

Forge Fashion Featured items:-

PVC & Lace Waspie Corset

The incredible lightness of being....

2011-02-08T13:04:00.000-08:00

Featured Treasury by DotStitch

Forge Fashion Featured items:-

'Hotaru' Fairy Corset

Project - Origami Corsets

2011-02-07T15:40:00.000-08:00

An afternoon of Origami Corset making.....
While zooming around the internet I found some instructions for making the cutest Origami Corsets, since it was a relatively easy make I later decided to teach my daughter (who's 8), we take on projects together semi regularly (our last project, which involved the entire family was plaster mask painting). Anyway since she is fascinated with my corset/costume making ventures it interested her immediately - so we set to work.......

Onto the Origami Corsets:-

Basic Style - Front

Mini Size!!

Back Style


Art Nouveau Print

Venus Fly Trap Print - Front

Venus Fly Trap Print - Back

We made them from big to small, out of origami paper, magazine pages, Christmas paper and even note pads. Some we left plain, others we embellished, but most importantly we discovered the easiest way for my daughter to make her own corsets!!

Want to have a go?? Read on....

**I'm going to store this under tutorial, for easy reference - however please note I did not come up with the idea and am not posting the making details here, instead linking to the original source for the instructions, which are self explanatory :-
http://www.thekhans.me.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6775

You can also purchase gorgeous ready made 'Origami Corset' gift cards here:-
http://www.etsy.com/shop/VoodooDollDesigns

Going Wild

2011-02-04T21:52:00.000-08:00

Featured Treasury by ZionShore

Forge Fashion Featured Items:-

Leather 'Komodo' Collar

*Forge Fashion was also featured in this article by MyntKat on DeviantART:-

Project Educate - Artisan Crafts ABC - A - D

Fashion Untamed.....a review of sorts!

2011-02-03T17:00:00.000-08:00

I have collected a number of books from Amazon of the fashion/costume variety over the last few years. So it's time to do some blog reviews on these or at least share some of my favorite images, inspiration, and if valid relate it to my own design journey or aspirations for the future.

The desire to get this book would seem obvious to people who know me well......for those that don't, try:- obsessed with reptilian prints/skins, feathers and leather and that would be a good starting point:-

WILD FASHION UNTAMED

The Metropolitan Museum Of Art

Generally speaking I'm a visual person and if a fashion or costume book contains enough interesting images I pretty easily pleased. But I do also have a very analytical side, so I am fascinated with the psychology behind both behavior and design as an expression of deeper meaning. As it turns out this book fits both of those criteria. That means Yay!! I have actually taken to reading this one instead of just turning the page to see the images.

MAN - EATER aka Femme Fatale

This is actually the last section of the book, but I start here because I enjoyed the reading material and loved the collection of images.

'The hyperbolic avian headdress was a prominent accessory of the Victorian and Edwardian beauty. The exploitative rage for exotic plumage, single feathers, and full carcasses, which began in the mid-nineteenth century, was responsible for the extinction of several bird species. Excessive, extravagant plumage is therefore an especially apt metaphor for the femme fatale as a threatening predator with ravenous material desires.....'

Of course this section had to contain a few Thierry Mugler pieces.....he's a bit of a pioneer in femme fatale in recent times after all (yes, I love his work).

'Begining in the 1980s Mugler imprinted leather with the marking of insects, serpents, and other beasts, creating iconic representations of vampish femininity in garments that are physically constraining yet visually empowering and intimidating.'

Snake Goddess

Jean Paul Gaultier

Medusa

Caravaggio

Some of the other sections

CALL OF THE WILD

Huntress

Jean Paul Gaultier

THE LION'S SHARE

BIRDS OF PARADISE

Headress

Bob Mackie

TIGRESS

'Produced during the period of first wave feminism, the 1901 fashion plate depicts a women whose corseted pouter-pigeon shape is sartorially overlaid with the markings of the spotted cat......'

The above is just a small amount of what this book entails, I would recommend it to anyone sharing similar interests in fashion/costume and pyschology.

*In regards to my own designs I can definitely see why the use of reptile prints, feathers and leather are such an attractive and repetitive feature in my work. Not only imparting my appreciation of the Goddess, Femme Fatale, and Warrior Archetypes but also giving me a physical form with which I can share and empower others.

Computer Lingering

2011-01-28T19:38:00.000-08:00

Since it's been cold and rainy, lingering on the computer is just soo easy to do. What efforts come out of this you say? Well, some line drawings of my newest sample to start with....

And updates to my my blog 'pages' (slowly getting information loaded up)......more lingering organization to come :)

The basic curvy overbust......

2011-01-22T20:02:00.000-08:00

I seriously am grateful that I can check my samples on an actual body, since you can't always trust inanimate objects to tell you the truth :) Yes indeed, it's good to know a few living dolls (or should I say friends with benefits) - bless you little Rach!!

This 'Basic Curvy Overbust' is slightly shorter in the bust then I intended and is now more of a 'demi' bust (to think I was worried it was going to be too long, and how silly to forget the extra measurement for the bust anyhow). So I'll head back to the pattern for some minor adjustments and another sample.......it's trial and error until the recipe is perfected!!!

Model:- Rachel Smith
Photography:- Trinitynavar

Corsets, Wind, Sun & Sandwiches

2011-01-19T13:47:00.000-08:00

In the weekend I took a pile of goodies around to my friend Ruth's for a morning of corset lacing and photography. We ended up contending with quiet severe winds and scorching sun light. Squinting, with hair in our mouths we trucked on.........perhaps it was with a slightly optimistic spirit that we persisted - all I can say is thank goodness for digital cameras!!

Afterward I was treated to Ruth's homemade bread, filled with produce from her garden, which of course made for an extremely delicious sandwich. Over lunch we viewed our efforts on her lap top and decided we had done pretty good considering!!

I also have to mention Ruth has never modeled before so I am especially proud of our amateur shoot (with me playing photographer and all).

Model:- Ruth O'Connor
Photographer:- Trinitynavar (aka me)

Lara's Corset Set

2011-01-14T14:41:00.000-08:00

I recently made this for Lara Lockwood, a lovely model & make up artist from the UK. It was a thank you gift for her previous modeling efforts and her continued support of Forge Fashion.

It included a fully boned corset (flat & spiral steals were used), with leather trim to match the bolero which is also leather. The skirt is a gathered mesh/tulle in a lovely rich rose.

I tea dyed the fabric and lace to get a more suitable match on the leather. Here is a picture taken during the dying process so you can see the original fabric.

And a few more of the corset:-

And because I finally have Business Cards, Swing Tags and Corset Care Instructions to send away with my products now......it was very exciting to pack it all up and use them for the first time.

NEWS
I'm still working on setting up my pattern stock......so yes I'm continuing with my vigorous sample making, it's the only way to work out my keepers/favorite workable styles for the future (fine tunning at the least)! And tomorrow I'm heading off with a friend to get a few photos I've what I've done thus far, so plenty of pics to come :)

B l a c k b i r d

2011-01-09T13:44:00.000-08:00

Featured Treasury by KandiceInWonderland

Forge Fashion Featured Items:-

Raven Crop Jacket

'Inara' Corset & Collar Set

2011-01-07T21:37:00.000-08:00

Yes indeed - it's all in the name!! This look was inspired by Inara a character from Joss Whedon's 'Firefly', who always wore absolutely gorgeous outfits in every single episode of the show. One day I would quiet like to complete a whole outfit based around her character, but in the meantime you get eye candy of the corset kind.

Waspie Styles and Samples

2011-01-04T01:28:00.000-08:00

Currently I am making more sample styles, trialling various patterns and cuts....... just meaning I am taking time to examine perceived flaws and making adjustments to improve the look and quality of my workmanship. I am intent on producing a varied range of corsets, from the most basic to the most detailed.......
I also get to create a nice little stockpile of goodies for ETSY/photo shoots while I'm at it - 2011 is the year I finally get to make more of a commitment to 'Forge'.....I'm very excited!!

Starting with the basics....

FINISHED SAMPLE:-

*I tried this one on to check the fit (LOL, I guess gaining 15 KG in the last year has it's benefits after all), and was pleasantly surprised to find that even with it's simple 7 panel (3.5 per side) construction I still received a nice 4 " reduction - perfect!

1st featured ETSY Treasury of 2011

2011-01-02T16:56:00.000-08:00

Featured Treasury by CrazyChain

Forge Fashion Featured Items:-

Concubine Collar

Steampunk Necklace

The beautiful bride......

2010-12-28T12:49:00.000-08:00

Here is a peek at Libby's Wedding photos (my last customer order from 2010).

Kerli - Tea Party

2010-12-26T01:14:00.000-08:00

I think I'd rather be at a Tea Party like in this video than in Christchurch having more damn aftershocks!!! Oh well, I shall grin and bare it (I should be able to, after the 3,000 odd we've already endured).....here's to hoping for a better day tomorrow :)

Guo Pei Haute Couture

2010-12-23T12:12:00.000-08:00

How can you not love the power of the visual feast??

Project - Dress Form

2010-12-21T00:35:00.000-08:00

My dress form is one of those items that gets a lot of use, I would say it gets a right beating actually. And of course it is starting to show.......but rather then opt for a newbie I think giving it a revamp is the way to go (time for another quick project)!

I've seen the most stunning covered dress forms all over the Internet .....like these:-
http://www.facebook.com/corsetlacedmannequin
which are so lovely - you could definitely get inspired, but most likely find you don't have time to make something so detailed. Well I'm going for a 'whip up' version so - no excuses :)

Lets get started, heres a pic of my dress form normally, mines a very basic standard dress form:-

And here is my first new cover made in black:-

And in the making:-
First I striped it back to the base (Ive taken the foam layer off only because I intend on moving my stuffing around according to the body proportions I want), I'm adding an old bra to increase the bust size (again it's something I'm doing for the proportions I want - you don't necessarily need to do this you could just make a cover to throw over your dress form as is).

**Drafting alternative**
A very easy way to do this instead of drafting a flat paper pattern is turn an old stretch t-shirt inside out and then use pins to follow the shape of the form on both sides

Basic Pattern:-
I took a few basic measurements from my dress form - shoulder, bust, waist, hip and the measurements between in length (it's good to make the over all length a few inches longer so you can tuck it under at the bottom). A basic sloper pattern could be a good base to start from if your not sure what your doing. I have to half all the measurements I've taken for around the body as I am making the flat pattern in two pieces front and back the seams at the side.

Since we are using stretch fabric your finished size needs to be 5-6 inches smaller across (or 3" smaller either side) so that it stretches tightly over the form. My half bust measurement is 17" across and my shell finishes at 12" across (make sure your fabric is moderately to very stretchy).

Notice the soft rounding at the shoulders and waist, try and keep you shaping gentle.....because it's stretch fabric it's better if everything is soft. You will also need a neck and top (the stopper circle at the neck hole). *The neck length just like the body needs a little extra so it can be tucked into the neck hole of the dress form.

Top - use a circle large enough to tie up under the stopper, a rubber band is suitable to keep it in place (it will be hidden inside the neck anyway).

I sew my necks on first, then put my fronts and backs together.

Now try the cover on the dress form inside out so you can pin in any areas that aren't looking right once you've stretched it on. After the sides are sewn up and you are happy with the fit, it's a good idea to make a wee channel/hem for elastic or cord to be threaded into (this means you can tighten the fabric around the pole or bottom of the dress form like on a sleeping bag). Put it all together again.......placing the neck top in and fastening the bottom neatly.

And just like that you have a new cover for your tired dress form!!

PS In case your curious my first black dress form cover is cotton and the second is printed stretch tulle (mesh).

Libby's Wedding Order

2010-12-12T16:48:00.000-08:00

Over the weekend a very lovely customer of mine got married, she wore a beautiful custom made Silk Corset and Skirt created specially for her by Forge Fashion.

I can honestly say I'm not overly fond of taking wedding orders, but everyone needs bread and butter work (as long as there is no white meringues involved, make that any white full stop, I can usually be persuaded)........ actually some customers are just such a pleasure to work with I completely forget why the word 'Bridezilla' was ever invented! Libby was exactly like that - completely zen, so calm it started to make me nervous, lol seriously I've been blessed with so many patient, kind customers over the years I could almost just come to expect it. But I don't!! So Libby gets special mention for being a complete honey, not only do I applaud this women I also think her husband is going to be a very lucky man indeed!! :)

OK I know on with the pictures........

The corset is interfaced and also has a strength layer, it is lined with a gorgeous calligraphy print cotton. The straps have unique twist with the halter neck lacing.

And since I mentioned it, and it is really so lovely here is the corset inside out:-

I will definitely be looking forward to seeing pictures of the bride and her wedding party as they appear, hopefully at some stage I will be able to post a photo here :)

Project - Lace Underwear

2010-12-06T22:23:00.000-08:00

Recently I stopped in at Bernina Sewing to pick up some supplies, my purchase meant another stamp on my 'stamp card' which qualified me for a free treat. I decided on 1 Metre of this lovely stretch lace:-

So here begins my photo journey/tutorial as I whip up a pair of handmade lace undies :)

1.

The back pattern piece is required to have a longer crutch shape as you can see in the picture (Ive based this on a pair of my own underwear, as an alternative a mock up could be made to individual measurements).......my lace is 6" by the way.

I made my pattern 4 pieces (2x per side) I could really of benefited from Carleyy's tutorial before I jumped in - she did one piece per side which would make it quicker and easier (isn't hindsight great, oh well maybe next time):-
http://www.instructables.com/id/Lacy-Un-Mentionables/

2.

Sew the two fronts together and then the two backs together (the red pin is so you can identify the front from the back).

3.

Now the crutch seam. Lay the front and back together, making sure the center seams match up then sew.

4.

This next part is all about the gusset (the wee shaped cotton insert).
A swatch of fabric finished off like a triangle and neatly edged (overlocked) works great. Laying the underwear sandwiched flat, bottom side up, the gusset is placed on top at the crutch seam where it is to be sewn in.

Spread flat (seams up) so that it is like a book, flip the gusset toward the front covering the raw seam.

Hand sew down, sewing into the seam at the tip......

5.

Sew sides together.

Choosing a flat clear or matching elastic to use around the hip/top of your underwear is a good idea (some underwear will also have this around each individual leg). A piece of elastic stretched around the lower abdomen or hip will be a suitable measure for length. Using a zigzag stitch, preferable with a stretch needle sew the elastic onto the lace from the inside (placement marked in picture below) - it's a good idea to 1/4 the elastic and underwear with pins and match them up as you sew.

Tidy up loose ends by either cutting or backtacking/stitching onto inner seams.

6.

Finished!

Corsets - Underbust

2010-11-29T22:00:00.000-08:00

Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer

Corsets - Overbust

2010-11-29T21:08:00.000-08:00

Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer

Accessories - Collars & Hats

2010-11-29T19:09:00.000-08:00

*Welcome to my new blog, if your interested in reading my earlier blog posts please visit:-
http://forgefashion.livejournal.com/?skip=40

Previous blog entries via Livejournal from 2006 - 2010