Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Kerli - Tea Party

I think I'd rather be at a Tea Party like in this video than in Christchurch having more damn aftershocks!!! Oh well, I shall grin and bare it (I should be able to, after the 3,000 odd we've already endured).....here's to hoping for a better day tomorrow :)

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Project - Dress Form

My dress form is one of those items that gets a lot of use, I would say it gets a right beating actually. And of course it is starting to show.......but rather then opt for a newbie I think giving it a revamp is the way to go (time for another quick project)!

I've seen the most stunning covered dress forms all over the Internet .....like these:-
http://www.facebook.com/corsetlacedmannequin 
which are so lovely - you could definitely get inspired, but most likely find you don't have time to make something so detailed. Well I'm going for a 'whip up' version so  - no excuses :)

Lets get started, heres a pic of my dress form normally,  mines a very basic standard dress form:-



And here is my first new cover made in black:-



And in the making:-
First I striped it back to the base (Ive taken the foam layer off only because I intend on moving my stuffing around according to the body proportions I want), I'm adding an old bra to increase the bust size (again it's something I'm doing for the proportions I want - you don't necessarily  need to do this you could just make a cover to throw over your dress form as is).



**Drafting alternative**
A very easy way to do this instead of drafting a flat paper pattern is turn an old stretch t-shirt inside out and then use pins to follow the shape of the form on both sides


Basic Pattern:-
I took a few basic measurements from my dress form - shoulder, bust, waist, hip and the measurements between in length (it's good to make the over all length a few inches longer so you can tuck it under at the bottom). A basic sloper pattern could be a good base to start from if your not sure what your doing. I  have to half all the measurements I've taken for around the body as I am making the flat pattern in two pieces front and back the seams at the side.

 Since we are using stretch fabric your finished size needs to be 5-6 inches smaller across (or 3" smaller either side) so that it stretches tightly over the form. My half  bust measurement is 17" across and my shell finishes at 12" across (make sure your fabric is moderately to very stretchy).



Notice the soft rounding at the shoulders and waist, try and keep you shaping gentle.....because it's stretch fabric it's better if everything is soft. You will also need a neck and top (the stopper circle at the neck hole). *The neck length just like the body needs a little extra so it can be tucked into the neck hole of the dress form.



Top - use a circle large enough to tie up under the stopper, a rubber band is  suitable to keep it in place (it will be hidden inside the neck anyway).


 I sew my necks on first, then put my fronts and backs together. 



Now  try the cover on the dress form inside out so you can pin in any areas that aren't looking right once you've stretched it on. After the sides are sewn up and you are happy with the fit, it's a good idea to make a wee channel/hem for elastic or cord to be threaded into (this means you can tighten the fabric around the pole or bottom of the dress form like on a sleeping bag). Put it all together again.......placing the neck top in and fastening the bottom neatly.


And just like that you have a new cover for your tired dress form!!

PS In case your curious my first black dress form cover is cotton and the second is printed stretch tulle (mesh).


Sunday, December 12, 2010

Libby's Wedding Order

Over the weekend a very lovely customer of mine got married, she wore a beautiful custom made Silk Corset and Skirt created specially for her by Forge Fashion.


I can honestly say I'm not overly fond of taking wedding orders, but everyone needs bread and butter work (as long as there is no white meringues involved, make that any white full stop, I can usually be persuaded)........ actually some customers are just such a pleasure to work with I completely forget why the word 'Bridezilla' was ever invented! Libby was exactly like that - completely zen, so calm it started to make me nervous, lol seriously I've been blessed with so many patient, kind customers over the years I could almost just come to expect it. But I don't!! So Libby gets special mention for being a complete honey, not only do I applaud this women I also think her husband is going to be a very lucky man indeed!! :)

OK I know on with the pictures........



The corset is interfaced and also has a strength layer, it is lined with a gorgeous calligraphy print cotton. The straps have unique twist with the halter neck lacing.





And since I mentioned it, and it is really so lovely here is the corset inside out:-



I will definitely be looking forward to seeing pictures of the bride and her wedding party as they appear, hopefully at some stage I will be able to post a photo here :)

Monday, December 6, 2010

Project - Lace Underwear

Recently I stopped in at Bernina Sewing to pick up some supplies, my purchase meant another stamp on my 'stamp card' which qualified me for a free treat. I decided on 1 Metre of this lovely stretch lace:-


So here begins my photo journey/tutorial as I whip up a pair of handmade lace undies :)

1.

The back pattern piece is required to have a longer crutch shape as you can see in the picture (Ive based this on a pair of my own underwear, as an alternative a mock up could be made to individual measurements).......my lace is 6" by the way.


I made my pattern 4 pieces (2x per side) I could really of benefited from Carleyy's tutorial before I jumped in - she did one piece per side which would make it quicker and easier (isn't hindsight great, oh well maybe next time):-
http://www.instructables.com/id/Lacy-Un-Mentionables/

2.

Sew the two fronts together and then the two backs together (the red pin is so you can identify the front from the back).


3.

 Now the crutch seam. Lay the front and back together, making sure the center seams match up then sew.


4.

This next part is all about the gusset (the wee shaped cotton insert).
A swatch of fabric finished off  like a triangle and neatly edged (overlocked) works great. Laying the underwear sandwiched flat, bottom side up, the gusset is placed on top at the crutch seam where it is to be sewn in.


Spread flat (seams up) so that it is like a book, flip the gusset toward the front covering the raw seam.


Hand sew down, sewing into the seam at the tip......


5.

Sew sides together.


Choosing a flat clear or matching elastic to use around the hip/top of your underwear is a good idea  (some underwear will also have this around each individual leg).  A piece of elastic stretched around  the lower abdomen or hip will be a suitable measure for length. Using a zigzag stitch, preferable with a stretch needle sew the elastic onto the lace from the inside (placement marked in picture below) - it's a good idea to 1/4 the elastic and underwear with pins and match them up as you sew.


 Tidy up loose ends by either cutting or backtacking/stitching onto inner seams.

6.

Finished!



Monday, November 29, 2010

Corsets - Underbust

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Corsets - Overbust

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Accessories - Collars & Hats




*Welcome to my new blog, if your interested in reading my earlier blog posts please visit:-
http://forgefashion.livejournal.com/?skip=40

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