So here begins my photo journey/tutorial as I whip up a pair of handmade lace undies :)
The back pattern piece is required to have a longer crutch shape as you can see in the picture (Ive based this on a pair of my own underwear, as an alternative a mock up could be made to individual measurements).......my lace is 6" by the way.
I made my pattern 4 pieces (2x per side) I could really of benefited from Carleyy's tutorial before I jumped in - she did one piece per side which would make it quicker and easier (isn't hindsight great, oh well maybe next time):-
Sew the two fronts together and then the two backs together (the red pin is so you can identify the front from the back).
Now the crutch seam. Lay the front and back together, making sure the center seams match up then sew.
This next part is all about the gusset (the wee shaped cotton insert).
A swatch of fabric finished off like a triangle and neatly edged (overlocked) works great. Laying the underwear sandwiched flat, bottom side up, the gusset is placed on top at the crutch seam where it is to be sewn in.
Spread flat (seams up) so that it is like a book, flip the gusset toward the front covering the raw seam.
Hand sew down, sewing into the seam at the tip......
Sew sides together.
Choosing a flat clear or matching elastic to use around the hip/top of your underwear is a good idea (some underwear will also have this around each individual leg). A piece of elastic stretched around the lower abdomen or hip will be a suitable measure for length. Using a zigzag stitch, preferable with a stretch needle sew the elastic onto the lace from the inside (placement marked in picture below) - it's a good idea to 1/4 the elastic and underwear with pins and match them up as you sew.
Tidy up loose ends by either cutting or backtacking/stitching onto inner seams.