Basic Curvy with a side of Tea and Lace ....

I have few projects/orders on the go so I have some posting to catch up with yet again.....

Here's something from the basic curvy files (this is my fashion or 'gentle lacing' range that gives great shape but is quicker in the making and kinder on the purse).

Since this is actually headed off to a local photographer for one of her shoots, I also made the dress.  For this look I snatched some lace from a vintage table cloth and did a bit of tea dying.......actually making this was very satisfying, from cutting to hand gathering it was an all round goody (sometimes things just flow nicely like that).

Other recent blog worthy activities include...

*The completed 'Tails Corset' 

(will do this once I've made all the matching accessories)

*Ruby Ruins costume for her Burlesque performance

(will post after the competition)

* 3 part Collection (including corset dress) as planned at the start of the year

(mock ups were completed way back, but finally onto the actual garments, so before the end of the year) 

Other Activities to consider before the end of the year.....

* A Tightlacer for Kathy Chin

* Custom made Corset for Threnody in Velvet

* Getting some Mentoring

* Adding more to my ETSY Store

* Finish up other Projects

* Preping for the New Year and Goal Setting 

2013.....big love for the new year!!

Here we come....another year of fun & frivolity - well potentially and really anything is possible at this point! So far it's just loose ideas and partially formed plans, but it's kinda like the moment you step on a plane to a new destination - full of optimism and hope for the future (let's hope 2013 brings all the good things we desire) :D

I must make a real effort to blog - at least weekly (or close to).......I totally love reading back over my recorded rants and seeing my progress year to year. Livejournal definitely contains a lot of years worth of my memories and work (seemed to have a bit more of a relationship with my LJ, guess the active communities helped entice me more regularly), but out from under the umbrella of the mushroom I shall try to hang.

Ok thinking about the last few weeks and those immediately ahead.....

The last few weeks has seen me playing photographer again, this time for both  'Forge' and also 'Trinitynavar'. I did a shoot with a lovely friend specifically for editing/retouching practice, which was awesome and the difference with not having my garments as the central focus is huge (another creative outlet). Also my lovely Canadian model Rebecca popped though over the xmas  break so I was able to have a quick jewellery shoot with her as well (pics to come).

The garden has really started to take off and I feel very excited by all my growing produce, since I really haven't had as big a garden previously I am finding it quiet the learning curb. But the rewards are just  awesome, time outside with more diy projects happening, totally unintended (I should start a 'pinterest made me do it' folder to keep a record).

Coming up......

- More damn 'Underworlds', though I am quiet excited by the addition of 'Sonja'
(variation to my bread and butter).

- Collaborations (a few already lined up for 2013)

- 3 Piece Collection = 2x  Corset Dresses and x1 Matching Underbust (all cut and ready to go)

- More Basic Curvy Overbust and Underbust going into stock


PS Have I mentioned how adorable my daughter is, she 14 month now - how quickly that went......she's no longer my tiny baby, instead a strong active toddler running rings around me (but mothers little helper just like her big sister and brother never the less) :)

Revamping - Plaid Corset

Occasionally there are things that linger around and feel not quiet finished, I try to make a point of pulling out one or two and giving them a tickle up when ever we have school holidays (smaller/easier bites for busier times).

Here's one such project 'Plaid' Basic Curvy, which I made quiet a while back.....I tried it with one of my Steampunk Belts, but never really felt all that convinced or satisfied with it. So since it was just sitting here I decided that would be my new rehash project. 

So my plans were to add a busk and bow and make a skirt to match - creating a sorta sexy secretary look. Now I recently receive a book about making vintage handbags so now I'm also thinking I'd like to add a bag too!

Here's where I'm at so far:-

Here's a before shot:-

 

I've tried it on one of my models and I can honestly say it now looks so much better, plus I get to have a new busk front sample of my Basic Curvy!

18th Century Rehash....

This is actually one of my earlier pieces made in 2004 while I was doing the Carol London corset making class here in Christchurch. After a bit of a freshen up, it's ready to live anew.....

 18th Century Corset

This lovely corset is headed off  to one of my previous models Miss Tempest for an intended photo shoot in Wellington.


OTHER STUFF...
*I have some amateur photography planned for latter this week with model Lady Dread which means I should have some new pics for you next week :)

I am also looking forward to working with some lovely local talent on some fabulous new projects over the coming months (yay for creative collaborating with actual grownups).

Wrapped up good......

Over the last few weeks I've also been  playing around with design ideas and trying various pattern making and corset techniques. One such design needing a pattern was this corset dress....

Now instead of my traditional methods of pattern drafting I decided to try something a little different. Based loosely on the duct tape method I've seen all over the net, I set about wrapping my mannequin and marking out my desired pattern lines. There are actually x2 separate corset patterns marked out, being that only half the body is required for each pattern (I'll get back to the second one in another post).

Because I used clear packaging tape it had quiet a cool ghostly effect once it was taken off the mannequin, you can also see how it keeps it's shape too....

Of course it still ends up a paper pattern anyway - so I can add the seam allowances.

Now to test my lovely new pattern with a mock up.............:)

Leather Knot Work....

I'm one of those people that always has a few things on the go, it usually means a lounge project (something crafty for in front of the tv), an order, and a random corset or two - just because.....This means I work across the board and everything ends up broken down into mouth size bites, so depending how I'm feeling or how much time I have I can always find something suitable to work on (and yes my beautiful little family has something to do with this)!

Currently I have a couple of orders that are just about to become more central in this mix, but before I get too busy lets look at what I've been doing for the last wee while, that is aside form adorning my lovely family in warming crochet goodies :)

I started this embroidered leather front panel while I was pregnant, but ended up putting it down, because if you haven't tried it.... well *this would be where I inserted swear words* it's hard work!

Thankfully after a wee break I've picked it up and happily continued, pliers and thimble in hand.

I think all my work doing 'Underworld' Replicas certainly inspired this, actually I have a few other 'leather knot work' pieces I'm excitedly planning for the future (fingers crossed).

So this week I actually got it to the shell stage......hurray it is actually starting to look like a corset.

I still have flossing detail to add, so I won't get to put away my thimble and pliers just yet!

But over all it is coming along nicely! It should have a 22" finished waist and be suitable for tightlacing. I already have plans for a matching outfit - think winter!!

A New Dress Form for 2012

Last year I decided to make a dress form cover, but this year I decided it would be a good idea to make a new dress form altogether. I find even though in most instances my current dress form is fine, for corsetry it really fails to show the shape correctly. Mostly because the corset makes no reduction to the waist of the mannequin, which of course it does on a real person. So with that in mind I ordered one of Atelier Sylphe Corsets hand drafted 'Victorian Mannequin' patterns from ETSY ('there is no need to reinvent the wheel').

I decided to use some old scrap leather in a lovely buttery skin colour which I was given a long time ago. I also already had some dacron from a previous holiday project so not only did it come together quickly and but it cost very little also (think fabric from your stash and recycled materials, plastic bags etc for filling).

I was pretty pleased with the out come, though maybe next time I'll use something other then leather so I can get cleaner lines and neater points on the darts - but not bad for a first go!

I  decided to enhanced the breast shape by using an old bra and then covered it with one of my dress form covers so I could test it out. I only had a few corsets here that would fit - nothing really heavily boned but even so.......

.....check out that lovely shape!

Why have this?

When you can have this?

Sampling - Dragon Scale Maille

Since we've had another big relocate (explains my absence) back home to Christchurch, and I'm close to the end of my pregnancy I have had to settle for small creative projects as opposed to big sewing orders or indepth work......so I've taken to 'sampling', it's  a  great way of keeping my creative mind active and my hands busy :)

I've been doing embroidery/flossing samples for a while (I'll do a post about that latter), but more recently I've taken to playing with dragon scale maille, trying various techniques and figuring out how to acheive the effects I want.

Tradition Chain Maille Weave

Crochet & Scales

5 Petal Flower

Earrings

*The earrings are sort of the beginning of my DIY Christmas gifts (excuse the blurry shot).

Leather 'Underworld' Replica Tutorial...

I get a lot of request for Leather 'Underworld' Corsets particularly around this time of year (pre Halloween/convention time), so I tend to take on a couple of orders for it each year. I  really enjoy doing a little replica work  from time to time (not only is it a good skill to have as a costume maker, but with anything that I have to repeat again and again there is the potential for improvement in my work).

MY PROCESS/ YOUR TUTORIAL
*Please note this tutorial is for somebody who has previous corset making experience and understanding (as I will not be going into detailed corset making techniques).*

Anyway onto the making of my most recent version of this well loved replica. I tend to prefer recycled leather for this project as the corset needs a little bit of a worn look. I start by drawing out the design which is seen on the corsets front panel  (kinda looks like a Celtic Knot), then I transfer it on to pattern paper, I have found this the easiest for the purpose,plus it's easy enough to nip off a commercial pattern you may already have laying around . Once on the pattern paper the design is then cut in half - this is because I will be doing the embroidery onto the two central font panels separately.

So begins the rather slow process of machine stitching the design on (of course there are other more simple methods, but this how I do it)............so with the pattern paper laying over the leather I stitch right through both the paper (leaving enough room for the seam), the leather and  the canvas following the outline of the design. After I have completed this I rip the paper away leaving the outline on leather as seen in the picture above on the left (you might like tweezers to get the little bits that get stuck).

Next the two center front panels are stitched together carefully matching the the design so it is perfectly mirrored on each side (well as close to matching as possible would be more accurate).

Now for the fun part (lol) you need good machine control for this, the alternative is to turn the wheel of your machine by hand. The internal areas of the design need to be filled in, I do this by stitching continuous lines back and forth. You may also have noticed I am using a Teflon foot (I can't recommend this enough) leather has the same 'slip properties' as PVC and if you insist on using a normal foot it will become very difficult (even if you have a walking foot - at this stage you really need to use a Teflon).

Time to make loads of strapping (cut, fold, sew), you need two sizes of clips also known as parachute clips. X6 smaller for both sides on the waist and x2 larger for one side on the hips. It's best to thread the strapping right through the clips so the clip can't be opened, since the are only for decoration.

Now it's time to start adding the other panels (add central bone channel before joining). Remember one side has the hip strapping, so it needs to be lined up and sewn into the seam. The top stitching for the bone channels is best done with a zipper foot (those buckles can get right in the way, so depending on your supplies it can be easier to thread the clips on afterward).

The following panel has the smaller clips, x3 on each side (it's the same process again for both sides).

Once you get around the back it's time to get the ends of the strapping closed off DO NOT JUST LAY FLAT AND SEW INTO THE SEAMS it's important that you use a dress makers doll, mannequin or even a pillow to create a body shape, so you can rest the strapping around the actual shape desired to find the correct  placement (once something is moved from flat to concave or convex your required ease will change, particularly with overlaying pieces).

Once the lining it added it's time for binding (this is where you would well love a walking foot).

Bones are cut and finished to size so they can be inserted.

Then it's finishing up the binding and eyelets.


My Finished Order:-

With the matching boned cuffs:-

EDIT 29/04/2012
Because of popular demand I am offering 2x Custom Made Replicas, or 'Underworld' Selene Corset Sets via my ETY Store for anyone who's interested:-
http://www.etsy.com/listing/98651399/custom-made-underworld-corset-cuffs

Project - Origami Corsets

An afternoon of Origami Corset making.....
While zooming around the internet I found  some instructions for making the cutest Origami Corsets, since it was a relatively easy make I later decided to teach my daughter (who's 8), we take on projects  together semi regularly (our last project, which involved the entire family was plaster mask painting). Anyway since she is fascinated with my corset/costume making ventures it interested her immediately - so we set to work.......

Onto the Origami Corsets:-

Basic Style - Front

Mini Size!!

Back Style 

Art Nouveau Print

Venus Fly Trap Print - Front

Venus Fly Trap Print - Back

We made them from big to small, out of origami paper, magazine pages, Christmas paper and even note pads. Some we left plain, others we embellished, but most importantly we discovered the easiest way for my daughter to make her own corsets!!

Want to have a go?? Read on....

**I'm going to store this under tutorial, for easy reference - however please note I did not come up with the idea and am not posting the making details here, instead linking to the original source for the instructions, which are self explanatory :-
 http://www.thekhans.me.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6775

You can also purchase gorgeous  ready made 'Origami Corset' gift cards here:-
 http://www.etsy.com/shop/VoodooDollDesigns

Project - Dress Form

My dress form is one of those items that gets a lot of use, I would say it gets a right beating actually. And of course it is starting to show.......but rather then opt for a newbie I think giving it a revamp is the way to go (time for another quick project)!

I've seen the most stunning covered dress forms all over the Internet .....like these:-
http://www.facebook.com/corsetlacedmannequin 
which are so lovely - you could definitely get inspired, but most likely find you don't have time to make something so detailed. Well I'm going for a 'whip up' version so  - no excuses :)

Lets get started, heres a pic of my dress form normally,  mines a very basic standard dress form:-

And here is my first new cover made in black:-

And in the making:-
First I striped it back to the base (Ive taken the foam layer off only because I intend on moving my stuffing around according to the body proportions I want), I'm adding an old bra to increase the bust size (again it's something I'm doing for the proportions I want - you don't necessarily  need to do this you could just make a cover to throw over your dress form as is).

**Drafting alternative**
A very easy way to do this instead of drafting a flat paper pattern is turn an old stretch t-shirt inside out and then use pins to follow the shape of the form on both sides


Basic Pattern:-
I took a few basic measurements from my dress form - shoulder, bust, waist, hip and the measurements between in length (it's good to make the over all length a few inches longer so you can tuck it under at the bottom). A basic sloper pattern could be a good base to start from if your not sure what your doing. I  have to half all the measurements I've taken for around the body as I am making the flat pattern in two pieces front and back the seams at the side.

 Since we are using stretch fabric your finished size needs to be 5-6 inches smaller across (or 3" smaller either side) so that it stretches tightly over the form. My half  bust measurement is 17" across and my shell finishes at 12" across (make sure your fabric is moderately to very stretchy).

Notice the soft rounding at the shoulders and waist, try and keep you shaping gentle.....because it's stretch fabric it's better if everything is soft. You will also need a neck and top (the stopper circle at the neck hole). *The neck length just like the body needs a little extra so it can be tucked into the neck hole of the dress form.

Top - use a circle large enough to tie up under the stopper, a rubber band is  suitable to keep it in place (it will be hidden inside the neck anyway).

 I sew my necks on first, then put my fronts and backs together. 

Now  try the cover on the dress form inside out so you can pin in any areas that aren't looking right once you've stretched it on. After the sides are sewn up and you are happy with the fit, it's a good idea to make a wee channel/hem for elastic or cord to be threaded into (this means you can tighten the fabric around the pole or bottom of the dress form like on a sleeping bag). Put it all together again.......placing the neck top in and fastening the bottom neatly.

And just like that you have a new cover for your tired dress form!!

PS In case your curious my first black dress form cover is cotton and the second is printed stretch tulle (mesh).